Form 2 Function
3 août 2012
Erich Zimmermann counts among the elite of the creative jewelry designers in Germany. His creations seem like veritable archetypes of jewelry, combining gold, platinum and sparkling gemstones in such a unique and exquisite manner that their perfect shapes can't be improved, neither by taking away nor by adding anything. At the same time these pieces meet all the modern requirements as to consistent designs, as well as our traditional desire for jewelry that has been created as a sensual adornment for its future wearer.
Erich Zimmermann has always had a special liking for gemstones, which is reflected in many of his creations. The most obvious results of this predilection are his dazzling Princess rings which by now have attained legendary status. These rings feature a slender ring band crowned by a large, colorful gemstone which is held by a few distinct prongs - just like the rings in our childhood dreams. The magnificence and subtlety of the precious minerals is shown off to maximum advantage, as intended by the designer. It's not for no reason that Erich Zimmermann regularly spends a considerable time of the year in the Far East. There, at the very places where they originate, he can buy gemstones which are hard to find in Europe. In the course of the years, this trained goldsmith has become an experienced gemstone expert who sometimes even cuts some of the stones himself. After all, he is also a perfectionist for whom no detail is too small to rethink and rework it until it meets his exacting requirements. In addition, he has an extraordinary aesthetic sense for formal harmony which he tries to achieve for long months, sometimes even years, and with utmost concentration before a new design leaves his Augsburg-based atelier in the form of a new and stunning piece of jewelry.
Thanks to this mentality the pieces of jewelry he creates and crafts are neither limited by any season nor subject to any fashion trend. On the contrary, they have their very own temporal cycle. This is particularly apparent in Erich Zimmermann's Cleopatra necklaces. Not only have they been a highlight in the range of his jewelry for years now, they also give us the impression as if they had already been adorning women's décolletés for thousands of years. The structural principle of these necklaces is stunningly simple: gemstones and matte gold alternate with each other, forming a charming pattern of stripes. The natural appearance of these necklaces does not reveal anything of the difficult and meticulous work required to craft them. The particular charm of Zimmermann's Bowl earrings is also due to this subtle interpretation and rendition of basic shapes: he simply placed a gemstone into a golden semi-bowl. This is all it took to create a piece of jewelry of such convincing design that we might ask ourselves why it hasn't always existed. These are the designs that make Erich Zimmermann one of the most frequently copied contemporary jewelry designers.
Zimmermann's affinity to the silversmith's art manifests itself his Cocoon collection. Voluminous yet simultaneously lightweight objects that remind us of organic structures provide charming counterpoints to the human body in the form of graceful jewelry for the ears and for the neck.
The wide spectrum of Erich Zimmermann's collections reflects his career as a jewelry designer: From a master silversmith he further developed to become a master goldsmith and then, thanks to his extraordinary creativity, he became a member in the Creative Artists' Association as well as a guest lecturer at international jewelry academies. Today the pieces of jewelry created by Erich Zimmermann are represented in leading galleries and jeweler's shops all over the world - as objects of desire for women who look for jewelry of an uncompromising quality and with a unique aura.